Friday 17 August 2012

Stepping over figs.......

I have news to report….out there is a place where the sun shines all day, the nights are balmy and the sea is warm. A land of yogurt and honey and squid and cheese pies and sweet coffee and cold beers. And when you squeeze the fat half of a cut lemon the juice gushes like water from a tap.
This land is Greece and honestly I think we should all go. Now. I’ve been on holiday and where better to go to escape the rigours of Olympic London than the home of the games. I haven’t been there for 30 years for no other reason than I’ve been elsewhere but it’s as lovely now as it was then.
White washed walls, peeling blue paint, pink Bougainvillea, red Geraniums, fat figs squashed under-foot and a one-eyed cat on every corner. And the wine is still as grim. No matter a cold Fix, the beer of choice, is all you need.
I took in the sights and delights of Athens first and then went to Skyros, the most southern of the Sporades Islands and a long way away ensuring a lower foreign tourist hit. It is very popular with the Greek holiday maker. I also heard a few French and the odd German but only one other UK family whilst lounging on my sun lounger.
The island is basically a hill, you’re either going up or down which allows you to eat ice-cream and re-claim your inner thigh. Rupert Brookes, the war poet, is buried there in a corner that will be forever England. We went and found the grave, alone in an olive grove high on a red soiled hill strewn with muddied chunks of marble, wild thyme and goats. It is easily missed and we drove past the first time before my friend spotted it.
“Are you sure it’s his?” I enquired.
“Who else’s would it be?” she replied.
Good point.
We stood as the sun was setting, beneath the weeping olive trees where Rupert’s friends had stood and remembered those that died in war and our own dead. Although like all good poets it was a mosie bite that did for Rupert. Then we left the hill as darkness fell, unchanged since it over-saw the ships sailing to Troy, and went to a bar in the port of Linaria, where you can drink cocktails and float on lilos. Greece ancient and modern and marvellous.
 Top tip:dinner at Tate Modern: two courses £20 or 3 courses £25......and a fabulous view of London Town all lit up.

25 comments:

  1. I also have not been to Greece for 30 years and still miss it. I wanted to go to Skyros, back then, but was talked into Naxos instead. Which is also lovely. A delightful post.

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  2. You make Waikiki sigh!



    Aloha from Honolulu
    Comfort Spiral
    =^..^=
    > < } } ( ° >

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  3. 35 years for me, and then it was crete, but I still remember and miss the experience. The Mousakaa, the Ouzo, the Pistachios at the disco, the delicious melons for breakfast, the warm blue sea, the topless models from London asking us (myslef and two mates) to apply copious amounts of suncream. (we had to take 2 hour cold showers afterwards so we could still walk)

    I do miss Greece, hope you really enjoy yourself.

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  4. Twenty years for me - and it was Crete in the Spring (to see the wildflowers). My best holiday ever. The people, the food, the flowers, just perfect. You do realise you are getting people all wistful having written this post, don't you?

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  5. I have visited many countries over the years but have never got to Greece ,,,,,,,,, must put it on my list...... so many countries, so little time !!!!
    I am one of those who LOVED the Olympics having been sporty myself although not now !! I can't think of many countries that could have such beautiful and historic venues for many of the sports and I think that we showed off London beautifully. XXXX

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  6. It's only been 6 years since we were last there, I love Greece so much and your poetic description makes me long for a trip back.
    My friends are off on a sailing holiday there in a fortnight and I'm insanely jealous. xxx

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  7. We are seriously thinking of a family trip to Greece next winter. I'm glad it was lovely for you.

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  8. Never been, but TSB makes a convincing case there.

    The People Who Always Talk As A Couple will be along soon with a few tales I dare say.

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  9. I have never been to Greece but it is on my travel list.

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  10. Wow. From here, Greece seems an impossibly long way. My daughter honeymooned there and the photos are washed with light.

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  11. I was first there last time about 30 years ago and it feels like yesterday, so relaxing with the deep heat and being able to spit olive pits from the restaurant straight into the sea (but no, I never did that..)Went back with the kids and the water was so polluted we all had sore throats.

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  12. you had me sold with the first paragraph - sounds delightful!

    - lauren

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  13. Ahhhhhhhh, it all sounds so fabulous. Don't stop, tell me what the water felt like.

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  14. Sounds divine! I've been to Corfu and Rhodes, both a lifetime ago, before kids. Think it put me off, I never think about going to Greece but you make it sound divine. I must check out this Island you went to. I always like the sound of Santorini though x

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  15. Your descriptive text took me back 35 years to my last visit to Greece, and now I want to go back again, a tad difficult as I'm living down in NZ. Did you have milky-looking Ouzo and roast pistachios?

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  16. I went ! Two weeks ago. Rhodes in forty degrees plus ( name of my book if I ever write one ) Homous Yoghurt Honey and a wonderful camp Scot in the sea exclaiming,
    "Marvelous... I'm ZORBA THE GREEK !!"
    and I'm PENELOPE !!!

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  17. We went years ago too - pre kids! - and I have to say, it was the best holiday we've ever had.

    Nina x

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  18. Oh to be there....
    Thank you so much for coming by and letting me know you were there!

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  19. It looks magnificent. I finally, finally applied for my passport, as I haven't left the states in decades. Wherever I go first, will be golden with sunshine. Thanks for the suggestion and the daydreams.

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  20. How wonderful. I took Ancient Greek at school and spent 4 summers in Greece. I'd like to go back but a big part if me is do so tired of travelling. If i can't get there easily I just don't want to go now.

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  21. That sky looks such a beautiful blue - wishing for some of that here! X

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  22. You make it sound fabulous!
    My husband is constantly wishing himself back in Greece, it was his favourite holiday place ever!
    I've not been....but you make it sound magical.

    Thank you SO much for your visit.
    Jane

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  23. I hadn't been for 30 years either--until 2008. I've been there 3 times since then. May the same fates smile upon you.

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  24. My 18yo son is going to Greece in October! I'm proud of him. He went to the travel agent and came back with a Kontiki trip booked. Athens, a cruise with the islands and Turkey.

    To be young again and not daunted by a 14 hour flight

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